The "real" Sardinia

We set off from the west coast of Sardinia from Bosa Marina and immediately the road tipped upwards. After a while we warmed to the climbing, it helped that the higher we went the better the roads got. The road surface was great, mostly unblemished pavement with short stretch of cobbles when passing through towns, also the further we went the traffic thinned out, the gradient moderated, and the scenery was both varried and beautiful. We were amazed by the quality of the riding, rolling through lush green pastures filled with bell-wearing sheep, interspersed with olive trees and cork oak groves. The descent to Santu Lussurglu was sublime and a just reward for the hours of climbing we had put in. Before reaching Ghilarza we explored a roadside Nuragic ruin built around ~1000bc, since this lost culture did not have any written language archaeologists can tell us little about them, but clearly defense was paramount.

All of the campgrounds near Ghilarza were closed and there were few options for wild camping so we sought out a place to stay and lucked upon B & B Ianam, which was a perfect place for us and the proprietor Giovanna couldn't have been more welcoming; she also directed us to a great restaurant that her brother runs. Hungry as we were from the ride we went to eat at 7pm. We arrived to an empty restaurant and ordered beers instead. When we were done the place was still empty, so we returned to the B & B for a while before finally returning and sitting down to eat a fine meal at 9:15pm - and by then there were a few other folks eating.

We set off the next morning for Tonara, famous for its Torrone nougat and for being one of Sardinia's highest towns. We again found ourselves wide-eyed and grinning as we pedaled through the mountain hamlets of Busachi and Sòrgano. The norm being climbing on excellent roads (with a teaser of a descent here and there), almost no traffic, and varied and interesting views; did I mention the trend was uphill? We arrived with hopes of camping or staying at the Ostello di Gioveuto, but it was closed. Silvia at the corner Bar/ Pizzaria came to the rescue by calling an acquaintance. Stephano and his wife Roalba run B & B Tia Zica, we had the top floor bedroom with a small balcony and enjoyed both the room and visiting with our hosts. While exploring town we zeroed in on cheering and made our way to the town's football pitch were the men's home team was playing their rival Ghilarza - the game ended in a 1-1draw. We really enjoyed Tonara, perfectly placed as it is on the edge of a forested mountain, unpretentious, beautiful, and authentic.

Tonara to Tortoli was to be our crux day of touring on the Island. Even though we began with a chilly 10km descent, and ended with a mind blowing 20km free fall back to sea level the intervening 80km involved riding up and over the spine of the island. Fortunately for us all of the traffic was on the autostrada that snaked along the valley bottom and then through tunnels, leaving the old road to cyclists and livestock. Each day of riding has provided new high-water marks in regards to quality, enjoyment, and awe, today was no exception. By the end of this very long day I was dragging and Susan had to pull us "home" to Camping Telis on the beach just east of Tortoli. We got groceries, showers, set up camp and had just enough light left to make dinner, soon after we lay down and passed out.