It's still spring in the high country, especially in the mountains. We have known all along that trying to cycle through the high mountains of the Dolomites and Alps in mid-late May was a gamble. We felt lucky to get through the Julian Alps before the weather turned, and might have enjoyed another day up high, but decided instead to head north towards and eventually into Austria to buy some time along their fine system of valley bicycle routes while we meandered eastward. The hope was to allow the inclement weather to pass, then to pedal back up into the high country in the Dolomites.
Fortunately for us the cycle paths along the northern edge of the Julian Alps (into Tarviso Italy and then northwards into Austria) as well as the paths along the River Gaile and later River Drau westward to Lienz and back into Italy were worthwhile in their own right. Unfortunately the weather didn't improve all that much and we did our best to dodge the worst weather by riding shorter days and booking rooms to stay the night while it poured outside. We didn't succeed in missing all of the weather and our day of riding back into Italy was especially soggy and cold. At times we did get glimpses of the Dolomites through the clouds, and the Austrian villages, beautiful countryside, apple strudel, and schnapps along with the weather made for a very memorable experience.
We took an extra day in San Candido, partly because we were now a bit gun-shy of the second day of "Periods of rain" forecast, and partly in the hopes of a miraculous turn around in the forecast. Leaving this area and heading west and then south means abandoning our dream of riding in the heart of the Dolomites, and instead of just accepting this we procrastinated. It is a bit disappointing, but despite the wet spring that we have faced this is the first time we have had to completely abandon our itinerary and re-think things, not bad after 2 months of touring.
On the way to Bovec, Slovenia.
Slovenia's emerald river, the Soča.
14% is pretty steep, and yes we rode 26 switchbacks up and 24 down the other side!
Looking up towards the top of Vrsič Pass (1611 meters above sea level, and 1120 meters higher than Bovec where we began our day).
All the switchbacks on the north side of the pass were cobbled to improve traction.
A monument to the hundreds of Russian POW's who built this pass during WWI to bring supplies to the front lines. Many of these POW's were wiped out by avalanches and the pass was supposedly re-named to Passo della Moistrocca in 2006 to honor these men. We never heard the new name used so perhaps it hasn't stuck yet?
Villach, Austria
With our new Friend Patrick who we met through Warm Showers. He told us we were old enough to be his parents. He is studying mechanical engineering.
Along one of the dirt sections of the Drau Cycle path.
Another "single track" section.
The guesthouse we stayed at near Spittal, Austria. We enjoyed chatting with Rudy, one of the fami members that ran the place. He showed us excellent hospitality and shared some fine schnapps with us. We also enjoyed some amazing Thai food as well, a first on our trip.
Our campground in Lienz was right on the edge of town, with awesome peaks towering above.
Heading off from Lienz, the rain started at kilometer 5 and didn't really let up. Fortunately for us most of our day was uphill, so we stayed warm, that is until we stopped and then we quickly became hypothermic while scrambling to find a room.
No comments:
Post a Comment